- #ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D HOW TO#
- #ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D MANUAL#
- #ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D FREE#
You can probably even buy empty microSD cases, like you can CD jewel-cases. Ideally, your card comes in a clamshell case, like the Micro Center ones do, or you can reassign such a case that came with another card. Labeling itĪnonymous cards all of the same capacity and speed and possibly even description does not scale well as an inventory system.
#ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D MANUAL#
DiskMaker X is the easiest way to do this, though there is also a manual process. Once you have a card, you’ll need to put the bits on it. (I would buy SDHC cards, but Micro Center sells the microSDHC cards for cheaper-50¢ cheaper as I write this.) Populating the card Instead, what I do is have a cache of 8 GB class-10 microSDHC cards (usually bought from Micro Center, but they make great Amazon filler items, too), which I permanently assign as macOS installer media.
#ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D HOW TO#
Adafruit has a “Happy Tip Tips” document that explains common soldering problems and how to solve them.īeing both a creature of habit and a digital packrat, I never install macOS from the “Install macOS” app.The Adafruit Guide to Excellent Soldering is another good intro tutorial.
#ERASING BLACK POINTS IN CHEETAH3D FREE#
There’s a free “Soldering Is Easy” short comic book that’s a good introduction.The Make kit comes with a little booklet that isn’t bad, but I needed other sources of info: Ideally that should be rare, but if you find yourself unable to tin your tip because the solder won’t melt or won’t adhere (“dewetting”) and the wet sponge doesn’t help, you probably need to jam your tip around in one of these for a bit.Įducational resources. The wad of metal is an abrasive cleaner that you’ll need any time you get too much build-up on the tip and the wet sponge isn’t enough. Lay some solder across the hole, then suck in any excess and spit it out onto your sponge. In this case, the “tip” is the flat, ring-shaped surface directly around the hole. Note that you need to tin the tip of a desoldering iron just the same as a soldering iron. It’s not ideal, particularly in how long it takes to heat up, but it’s still better than an unheated desoldering pump. It might have gone better with the better soldering iron, but I already had this thing from Radio Shack by then. I found trying to desolder my mistakes using the included solder-sucker tricky. Mine is a Weller WES51 it heats to operating temperature in under a minute, and has an LED to indicate when it’s ready.Ī desoldering iron. Don’t waste time and energy on it-spend the extra $50 or so to get a good iron. The iron included in the kit takes forever to heat up, and it’s oxidising all the while. I had the freebie Google-branded safety glasses that they hand out at Maker Faires, but if you don’t have any, get some.Ī soldering iron that isn’t trash. This happened to me-fortunately it didn’t go in my eye, but I made damn sure right then to get out my safety glasses and wear them for all further soldering. You need eye protection because a blob of solder can go flying when you’re cleaning your iron. The web page for the kit explicitly acknowledges this. I’ve improved a lot since then, as seen by the rest of the badges. The one on the far left is from months ago.
I recently completed the set of blinky badges included. I bought the Make: Getting Started with Soldering Kit at the Bay Area Maker Faire earlier this year. I posted the photos on Flickr and will be embedding them here.Ĭategories: Uncategorized. This is largely going to be a photo tour I took photos the whole way through the project. Fortunately, I’d bought a no-name variety pack of presser feet off Amazon Warehouse Deals awhile back, so I had one ready to go. Leather is grippier than most fabrics, so you actually need to use a different presser foot on your sewing machine-specifically, a roller foot. This was the first time I’d worked with leather, however, and that was interesting. This wasn’t the first drawstring bag I’d made I’d done one previously at the first sewing class (there’s a whirlwind tour of operating a sewing machine and then they drop you straight into making things it rocks), and I made a couple of prototypes from cheap muslin before I started actually sewing the leather. (I was keeping them in the tube they came in, but it’s harder to get the dice back in than just pouring them into a bag, and it doesn’t look anywhere near as cool.) Since then, I’ve taken another sewing class, bought another sewing machine, and done my first solo project: a leather dice bag, to keep my D&D dice in. Last year, I took a sewing class and bought a sewing machine.
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